Mar 17 • 12:35 UTC 🇩🇪 Germany SZ

Restaurant Guide Gault & Millau: 'I find a scathing review outdated'

The Gault & Millau restaurant guide is facing uncertainty in Germany following licensing and brand disputes, with its future in the country now in doubt after a 2026 edition was announced as the last.

For years, Gault & Millau has been a staple in the culinary scene alongside the Michelin Guide, providing a platform for chefs to showcase their talents while offering critical reviews that sometimes stung. Despite its significance, the German edition of Gault & Millau has faced challenges, particularly following an escalated licensing and trademark dispute that emerged prominently in 2023 and which is expected to occupy legal conversations well into 2024. While the 2025 edition has been released, it has been announced that no edition will be published in 2026, leaving the future of Gault & Millau in Germany in a precarious position.

The international Gault & Millau brand was sold to a Russian investor group in 2019, and this transaction raised eyebrows due to reported links to the Russian state bank VTB, although the current ownership is nominally held by the NTI holding company. This significant shift in ownership has prompted questions about the guide's operations and credibility within Germany and beyond. Publisher Hannah Fink-Eder from Munich, while refraining from discussing the intricacies of ownership, emphasizes the critical impact that the absence of Gault & Millau would have on the culinary landscape as chefs and restaurants often rely on such guides for visibility and recognition in a competitive industry.

The situation surrounding Gault & Millau illustrates ongoing tensions in the food review space, where culinary artistry meets the business realities of ownership and brand management. The potential cessation of the guide in Germany raises implications not only for local restaurants but also for the broader perception of culinary excellence in the country. As the restaurant industry copes with these uncertainties, the community may face challenges in terms of visibility and the validation of their cuisine without established platforms for recognition, which can influence both business performance and culinary innovation.

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