MILAN FASHION WEEK ⟩ Roberto Cavalli: from Morticia to Pink Dream
At Milan Fashion Week, Roberto Cavalli's creative director Fausto Puglisi surprised audiences with a nearly all-black collection, emphasizing a dark romanticism that is both sensual and strong.
At this season's Milan Fashion Week, Roberto Cavalli's creative director, Fausto Puglisi, took a daring turn away from the brand's signature vibrant animal prints and colorful chiffons, instead presenting a collection that was predominantly black. This unexpected direction highlights a sophisticated aesthetic, where the darkness serves not as a bleakness but rather as a celebratory, feminine strength. Puglisi describes this collection as embodying a 'new romantic and dark' theme, with subtle signatures of Cavalli visible in textures, details, and silhouettes through a dark filter.
The collection features gothic-inspired silhouettes reminiscent of Morticia Addams, showcasing leather biker jackets embossed with crocodile patterns, glossy wide-leg trousers, voluminous ballerina skirts, lace minidresses with corset elements, and sleek evening gowns characterized by exceptionally long, pleated sleeves that cover the wrists. This powerful imagery redefines darkness in fashion, transforming it into something seductive and empowered, resonating deeply with the concept of strength in femininity.
When color finally appeared on the runway, it felt like a refreshing reprieve from the monochromatic blackness. Sheer dresses adorned with rose motifs, delicate embroideries, and sequins introduced vibrant tones of bright pink and periwinkle, injecting life into the collection and juxtaposing the initial dark theme with elements of brightness and creativity. This approach showcases Puglisi's ability to blend the contrasting themes of darkness and light, promising an innovative take on the classic Roberto Cavalli identity for future collections.