The article recounts the author's stay in a historic manor house in Chalkwell, Southend-on-Sea, during a literary residency in England in 2018. The author's arrival at the grand and ominous manor, which had been remodeled several times throughout history, evoked the atmosphere of a murder scene from a Sherlock Holmes story. The manor, surrounded by a vast park, provided a stunning morning view of the Thames estuary, emphasizing the blend of natural beauty and historical significance of the location.

Chalkwell, located in Essex, is depicted as a region rich in unique history, despite its modern, built-up appearance. The area is notably linked to witchcraft, and the author highlights this connection by mentioning Canewdon, the most famous village associated with witches in England. Essex's history is also marked by the last witch trial in 1944, which adds to the local lore and lends an air of intrigue and darkness to the surroundings.

The author expresses a deep appreciation for Essex’s peculiar fame due to its past, contrasting it with local stereotypes often depicted in jokes and stories. This reflection serves as a vivid reminder of how historical narratives shape our understanding of places, reinforcing the connection between local heritage and contemporary identity, particularly in regions with complex histories like Essex.