Jelšava, a town with a rich history located in the Gemer region of Slovakia, has become one of the most depressing places in the country, currently facing severe economic and social challenges. The main street, notable for the rare Coburg Castle, is lined with crumbling deserted houses, and the general atmosphere is reminiscent of war-torn regions, with no banks or mobile operator stores remaining in the area. The situation is exacerbated by environmental issues, such as smog making the air nearly unbreathable.

Mayor Milan Kolesár, who has been in office since 2002, candidly remarks on the lack of progress in Jelšava, stating that despite over twenty years of efforts with his colleagues, it seems as though the town is afflicted by a curse, revealing that they have only been able to manage the decline rather than reverse it. His commentary highlights the challenges faced by local governance in addressing persistent socio-economic issues that have seemingly inelastic effects on the community.

The article explores several pressing issues in the town, including the illicit trade in precious metals, which has drawn police concerns, as well as the trend of mayors and officials from other parts of Slovakia purchasing cheap homes in Jelšava to relocate marginalized communities. It raises questions about the future of the Coburg Castle and discusses the demographic complexities of the local population, which has a significant number of residents with Russian-Roma heritage. These topics reflect broader trends in regional development and the varied challenges faced by small towns in Slovakia.